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Day 11 Viana to Logroño  11kms

 

I didn´t walk very far yesterday because by the time I got to Logroño my feet were killing me and my knees had started to go as well. My pack weighed a ton and I was hot beyond words. I went to a cafe and had a early lunch and then found a private hostel where I could have a room of my own, although I had to share the bathroom. After a shower and a rest, I went out and spent some money that I could ill afford, but it was necessary. I needed to do something about my footwear and so I went to a hiking shop where they had hiking sandals with closed toes (waterproof as well). They are wide at the toe, like Crocs are, and when I put them on, I could barely feel my blisters. Then the shop assistant told me (in our fractured Spanglish) that my socks were too thick for this climate. I had bought them in England where of course I got mid-weight ones, but he told me I needed lightweight ones that would wash and dry quickly and weren´t as hot for my feet. I bought them and put them on in the shop and it made such a difference. I also got a lightweight bag liner because my sleeping bag is too hot as well. It is hard to imagine just hot it is here. The temps aren´t really what they seem, because they take all their measurements in the shade, but there is so much SUN! I think England needs to send some cloud cover to Spain and then there would be more sun for England and more shade for Spain.

 

I also went to the Farmacia and got an elastic tube bandage for my right knee and some cream to rub into it for the pain. It seems that all the steep ascents and descents causes a lot of knee problems for pilgrims. I am not the only injured pilgrim on this trip! Even the young ones are a mass of blisters and band-aids, knee and ankle wraps. My right hip is compensating for the knee and now it is painful, but it can´t be much worse than athletes and ballet dancers who suffer for their passion. I have seen ballerinas dancing on bloody toes during rehearsals- they just clean their feet, wrap em up and go out and dance again!

 

I don´t know if I mentioned before but I was able to get to a Mass (for feast of St Thomas) in Los Arcos. It was so interesting because the priest was passionate and appeared to give a great homily - only I didn´t understand him since his Spanish was so fast! I did catch words here and there about St Thomas not believing and how we don´t believe sometimes -- and it was all so appropriate to how I was feeling that day. And then afterwards the priest called all us pilgrims up to the front and handed up prayer cards in our own languages, and then said a blessing over us all in Spanish. It was very sweet. I liked Los Arcos. I didn´t care much for Viana, but it could have been my state of mind. The Cathedral was impressive inside but seemed cold and heartless and commercial. There was no sanctuary lamp so I assumed that the Blessed Sacrament wasn´t there. They did have another lard room off the main church that had a sign in Spanish about being for prayer, so maybe they said Mass there instead of in the main building. There were all these alcoves to different saints but to see the statuary in them, you had to insert 1 Euro for íllumination´which I assumed meant turned the lights on in the alcove. It gave me the creeps. I think it would have cost me about 20 Euros to have seen every alcove there. I did get a coupld of photos though of statues that were not in alcoves. But I couldn´t get out of Viana fast enough.

 

Interesting side note while we are on feelings - way back when there was a White Cross on the side of the road, and a sign saying that it was put there to ward off witchcraft since that area was well known in the past for many witches covens. Spirituality is very in your face here -- one way or another.

 

Well, Logroño was delightful but I had to move on so today I made it as far as Navarette which is only 12kms but I got lost trying to get out of the city a couple of times -- it is a big city - and a nice one too. So by the time I was climbing the hill into Navarette (all Spanish cities seem to be built on hills), the sun was beating down on me and my feet were sore again despite the new sandals, so I figured I might stay here and make a frash start tomorrow. I am trying to catch up some time, as my brother is sending an iPod Touch to me in Burgos so I can stay updated with email to the family, but I had to give him a date that I owuld be there to collect it, so I said the 13th. It should be possible but not if I only do 10-15k a day. I need to get back to 15-20k. If only the feet would get better!! By the way, I took some photos of my blisters - lol - not that anyone wants to see them, but I didn´t want to forget! they are in the photobucket library. To post a photo from there to here, just click on the Direct Link option and then insert it here as a photo link.

 

I have started to lose weight, nice side effect but it means my pants are getting baggier - and the belt keeps going up a notch - lol.

 

So after the major meltdown in Viana, I had a wonderful time in Los Arcos with Jesus. Sometimes He seems so far away and that´s when I need to trust Him, but that´s when it´s hardest to do so. Then sometimes without any effort at all, there He is! And everything is fine again. You konw, that old adage that ´God´s in His heaven and all´s right with the world!

 

´So, must think about lunch now and then I have to find either an albergue or a hostel - this town is fairly big - nothing like Los Arcos, but big for a small town, so I should be ok.

 

Thank you again and again for all your emotional support. Like everyone else, some days are harder than others. Tomorrow I hope to get to Najera - it is 16k - do-able is I start early enough.

 

Greetings to everyone from the Pilgrim.

 

 

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Hi, Nunsense,

 

Just posting a quick note to you -- when I was looking at the various 'pilgrimage blogs' a lot of the pilgrims seem to take a half-day off at Logrono.  So I suspect you are not alone in NEEDING the extra R&R time....

 

Glad you and Jesus are having some time together, and VERY glad that you are doing things to take care of yourself.  I think that is what Jesus would do for you if he were to come to be with you in person.   

 

I wish you success in your hope of picking up your pace (and understand the need)... but listen to your body and soul as well.  That may be part of what the Camino is trying to say to you....  Perhaps there is a way of contacting the post office or Fed Ex (or whatever your brother is using to send the iPod Touch to you) to ask them to hold it for your arrival.  You can't be the first pilgrim who needed an extra day....  Maybe the people at the next pilgrim hostel would know a good way to do this.... 

 

Appreciate all that you put in your last entry, and I'll format it as I have been doing with some pictures and blog entries from fellow pilgrims later today. 

 

Holding you in prayer....

 

AnneLine

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maximillion

Prayers nunsense, for those blisters and the sore knee(s). I know what that's like!

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Nunsense, once again, I hope this finds you at a place of rest and relaxation. 

 

It was wonderful to see actual photos from your walk, Nunsense, and to realize how closely we really have been following along.  :)  (You can see Nunsense's actual photos by clicking on the photobucket links I've added to her story.  Hopefully I got the places right!)

 

 

Quote from Nunsense:  

 

Day 11 Viana to Logroño  11kms

 

I didn´t walk very far yesterday because by the time I got to Logroño my feet were killing me and my knees had started to go as well. My pack weighed a ton and I was hot beyond words.

 

http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p689/ozzieannie/IMG_0518_zps17a6dbce.jpg

 

I went to a cafe and had a early lunch and then found a private hostel where I could have a room of my own, although I had to share the bathroom. After a shower and a rest, I went out and spent some money that I could ill afford, but it was necessary. I needed to do something about my footwear and so I went to a hiking shop where they had hiking sandals with closed toes (waterproof as well). They are wide at the toe, like Crocs are, and when I put them on, I could barely feel my blisters. Then the shop assistant told me (in our fractured Spanglish) that my socks were too thick for this climate.

 

http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p689/ozzieannie/IMG_0486_zps9ba579f1.jpg

 

I had bought them in England where of course I got mid-weight ones, but he told me I needed lightweight ones that would wash and dry quickly and weren´t as hot for my feet. I bought them and put them on in the shop and it made such a difference. I also got a lightweight bag liner because my sleeping bag is too hot as well. It is hard to imagine just hot it is here. The temps aren´t really what they seem, because they take all their measurements in the shade, but there is so much SUN! I think England needs to send some cloud cover to Spain and then there would be more sun for England and more shade for Spain.

 

http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p689/ozzieannie/IMG_0423_zps12db1d7f.jpg

 

I also went to the Farmacia and got an elastic tube bandage for my right knee and some cream to rub into it for the pain. It seems that all the steep ascents and descents causes a lot of knee problems for pilgrims. I am not the only injured pilgrim on this trip! Even the young ones are a mass of blisters and band-aids, knee and ankle wraps. My right hip is compensating for the knee and now it is painful, but it can´t be much worse than athletes and ballet dancers who suffer for their passion. I have seen ballerinas dancing on bloody toes during rehearsals- they just clean their feet, wrap em up and go out and dance again!

 

I don´t know if I mentioned before but I was able to get to a Mass (for feast of St Thomas) in Los Arcos. It was so interesting because the priest was passionate and appeared to give a great homily - only I didn´t understand him since his Spanish was so fast! I did catch words here and there about St Thomas not believing and how we don´t believe sometimes -- and it was all so appropriate to how I was feeling that day. And then afterwards the priest called all us pilgrims up to the front and handed up prayer cards in our own languages, and then said a blessing over us all in Spanish. It was very sweet. I liked Los Arcos.

 

http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p689/ozzieannie/IMG_0492_zpsc50ba451.jpg

 

 

I didn´t care much for Viana, but it could have been my state of mind. The Cathedral was impressive inside but seemed cold and heartless and commercial. There was no sanctuary lamp so I assumed that the Blessed Sacrament wasn´t there. They did have another lard room off the main church that had a sign in Spanish about being for prayer, so maybe they said Mass there instead of in the main building. There were all these alcoves to different saints but to see the statuary in them, you had to insert 1 Euro for íllumination´which I assumed meant turned the lights on in the alcove. It gave me the creeps. I think it would have cost me about 20 Euros to have seen every alcove there. I did get a coupld of photos though of statues that were not in alcoves. But I couldn´t get out of Viana fast enough.

 

http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p689/ozzieannie/IMG_0482_zps363e7184.jpg

 

Interesting side note while we are on feelings - way back when there was a White Cross on the side of the road, and a sign saying that it was put there to ward off witchcraft since that area was well known in the past for many witches covens. Spirituality is very in your face here -- one way or another.

 

Well, Logroño was delightful but I had to move on so today I made it as far as Navarette which is only 12kms but I got lost trying to get out of the city a couple of times -- it is a big city - and a nice one too. So by the time I was climbing the hill into Navarette (all Spanish cities seem to be built on hills), the sun was beating down on me and my feet were sore again despite the new sandals, so I figured I might stay here and make a frash start tomorrow. I am trying to catch up some time, as my brother is sending an iPod Touch to me in Burgos so I can stay updated with email to the family, but I had to give him a date that I owuld be there to collect it, so I said the 13th. It should be possible but not if I only do 10-15k a day. I need to get back to 15-20k. If only the feet would get better!! By the way, I took some photos of my blisters - lol - not that anyone wants to see them, but I didn´t want to forget! they are in the photobucket library.

 

Decided not to post those unless you tell me to do it, Nunsense....  ;)

 

To post a photo from there to here, just click on the Direct Link option and then insert it here as a photo link.

 

Thanks for the help on that, nunsense.... 

 

I have started to lose weight, nice side effect but it means my pantaloons are getting baggier - and the belt keeps going up a notch - lol.

 

We think you mean down a notch... but we get the point.  Congratulations!

 

So after the major meltdown in Viana, I had a wonderful time in Los Arcos with Jesus. Sometimes He seems so far away and that´s when I need to trust Him, but that´s when it´s hardest to do so. Then sometimes without any effort at all, there He is! And everything is fine again. You konw, that old adage that ´God´s in His heaven and all´s right with the world!

 

Kind of a nice blog entry indicating that someone else had a good spiritual experience in Los Arcos as well....

http://journals.worldnomads.com/stejomi/story/100233/Spain/A-Local-Encounter-that-Changed-my-Perspective-Los-Arcos-Church-Discovery

 

´So, must think about lunch now and then I have to find either an albergue or a hostel - this town is fairly big - nothing like Los Arcos, but big for a small town, so I should be ok.

 

We hope you enjoyed a good lunch, Nunsense!

 

camino_rioja_san_milan_bahrami.jpg

http://www.transitionsabroad.com/listings/travel/travel_to_eat/culinary_travel_walking_camino_de_compostela.shtml

 

Thank you again and again for all your emotional support. Like everyone else, some days are harder than others. Tomorrow I hope to get to Najera - it is 16k - do-able is I start early enough.

 

Will plot your projected route accordingly.  Off to Najera!

 

Greetings to everyone from the Pilgrim.

 

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

Projected next stage of Nunsense's journey:

 

http://www.caminomyway.com/on-the-camino-de-santiago-logrono-to-ventosa-spain 

(above is a repeat from yesterday... because she took some extra rest time)...

 

And this is the additional projected walk to Najera

http://www.caminomyway.com/on-the-camino-de-santiago-ventosa-to-najera-spain

 

Saturday July 6, Sunday July 7

 

Logrono to Najera 27.3 kms (17 miles)

 

 

Weather:  temperatures for today and next few days….

 

 

Logrono:  Sat, 06………….....… 15-32 C …… 59-90 F

Najera:    Sun, 07………….....… 13-30 C …… 55-86 F

 

www.accuweather.com/en/es /    for Logrono and Najera

 

Here is a second blog, a much more informal one.   They walked the 17 miles in 1 day as well, Nunsense....

 

It covers the walk between Navarette and Najera:

 

http://www.gregspurgin.com/walking-the-camino-de-santiago/2010/09/06/day-12-navarette-to-najera/

 

They remind you (all of us, in fact!) to DRINK YOUR WATER!!!!!

 

filling-water-at-fuente.jpg

http://www.gregspurgin.com/walking-the-camino-de-santiago/2010/09/06/day-12-navarette-to-najera/

 

Navarette, Spain

 

 d_navarrete_rioja_t2600487.jpg_369272544

 

 http://www.spain.info/en_US/que-quieres/ciudades-pueblos/otros-destinos/navarrete.html

 

 

Hopefully I am doing a fair job of finding photos to match your walk.

We're all walking with you in spirit, dear friend.

 

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Day 13 Sunday

 

I´ve gotten myself all confused as to what number the day is and how many kilometres I walked - so I will have to look it up in my diary when I have iton me. I am using the Internet in a hosteland my things are upstairs in the room.

 

 

I do know that today I walked from Navarrette to Najera which was about 16kms, and it is Sunday. Lastnight I went to Vigil Mass in Navarrette and it was quite sweet,although onceagain I wished that I understood more spanish. I THINK that the gospel reading was when the disciples were sent out in twos to prepare towns for Jesus to follow. And the homily seemed to focus on being Christians by living the life of Christ´s peace. But of course, I can´t guarantee any of it! :) After Mass the priest did the usuall blessing of the pilgrims and the congregation all broke into song - something about the Camino -it was really sweet. I love the way the Spanish aren´t afraid to sing ´a capella´without any accompaniment or anything. The priest will walk in to start the Mass and then just start singing and everyone will join in. He does the same at the end and everyone knows the songs! Loveit.

 

Navarrette wasa really sweet town but as it was Saturday afternoon when I got into it - no Farmacia were open so I couldn´t stock up on bandaids and other things. But then today I didn´t need as many of them because my feet were feeling remarkably like they are starting to heal! Different parts hurt, like the balls of my feet or the heels, but the blisters seem to be under control for now. The knees and hips are the real problems now but manageable. I figure that by the time I get to the end of the Camino, every part of my body will have made itself heard - but at least they don´t all attack me at once! :)

 

Today I met up with another lady on her own that I met at the start. She is 70 years old from the US and occasionallywe run across each other,so today we walked together. I don´t usually walk with someone else because this isa bit of a lone journery for me, but somehow it just seemed right,and we spent a good portion of the time talking about God. She isn´t Catholic, just a very spiritual person who trusts a lot in God. We came into Najera together and are staying at the same hostel.Whether we will walk together tomorrow or not remains to be seen, but it was a nice change and it did makethe journey seem pleasant. Sort of likethe disciples going out in twos - but we weren´t preaching, just sharing with each other. Sweet.

 

I have checked the schedule up to Burgos,and it does seem as if I should be on time unless some injury or pain prevents me, but I am not worrying about it. God will show me what He wants I am sure.

 

Tomorrow I think I might make it to Santo Domingo but if not, that´s ok with me. There are some steep hills coming up and I might break those stages down a bit more. The combination of steep ascent and heat is a bit too much for me.

 

Jesus has been ver close for two days and today my friend said that she knows people whonever fight with God. I told her that they must not havea very close relationship with Him then! :) She and I both agreed that getting mad at God sometimes is just fine - and He can take it,too.

 

But right now there is no fighting, just a calm assurance that everything is ok.I still have no idea where I will go after this is all over or what I will do, but one day at a time is really all that matters on the Camino.

 

Love to all here, and thanks for the hard work, AL, as always. Prayers for everyone too, every time I see another shrine or church. I light candle and pray Rosaries and ask for blessings for everyone. Stay well. :)

 

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way-of-st-james-map.jpg

(we haven't popped the map in for a while, so here it is...)

 

I'm pretty sure you are on day 12, but we know where to find you. :)   I'm primarily posting to keep this on first page.  Will do the usual drop in some photos and plot your route in a little while.

 

San Domingo de la Calzada is NOT St. Dominic of the Dominicans.  Here's a little bit about this one:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dominic_de_la_Calzada

 

If you see this before you leave Santo Domingo, check out the chicken and rooster in the cathedral -- per this legend:

 

Miracles are attributed to Dominic, among them the healing of a French knight who had been possessed by the devil and who was freed of his affliction by visiting the sepulcher of the saint. Another concerns the healing of a German pilgrim named Bernard in the fifteenth century, who was cured of an affliction of the eyes by visiting the saint’s tomb. Another concerns the healing of a blind Norman who was cured when he visited the cathedral.

 

The most famous miracle, however, concerns that of the rooster and the chicken, which is said to have taken place at Santo Domingo de la Calzada.[4] The story goes that in the 14th century, a German 18-year old named Hugonell, from Xanten, goes on pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela with his parents. A Spanish girl at the hostel where they were staying makes... advances toward Hugonell; Hugonell rejects her advances. Angry at this, the girl hides a silver cup in the German’s bag and then informs the authorities that the youth had taken it. Hugonell is sentenced to the gallows, in accordance with the laws of Alfonso X of Castile.

 

 

200px-Santo_Domingo_de_la_Calzada.jpg

magnify-clip.png

Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

 

In memory of Dominic's miracle, a rooster and chicken, with white feathers, are kept alive at the cathedral all year round. [5] A different rooster and chicken are switched each month, although they are called descendants of the original birds who miraculously danced even though roasted. The pairs of roosters and chickens, when they are not at the cathedral, are kept in a chicken coop called the Gallinero de Santo Domingo de la Calzada, which the Cofradía de Santo Domingo (Confraternity of Santo Domingo) maintains with the help of donations. A wayside shrine (hornacina) built in 1445 holds a relic associated with the miracle: a piece of wood from the gallows from which Hugonell was hanged.

 

Medieval pilgrims gathered the feathers of these favored birds, or got them from the priest, and would affix them to their hats.[5] Another tradition claimed that if the birds ate breadcrumbs directly from the end of the pilgrim’s staff, that pilgrim would arrive safely in Compostela.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dominic_de_la_Calzada   Highlighting added

 

 

So.... if you get a chance to get the birds to eat off your staff, DO IT!!!!

 

Edited by AnneLine
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Nunsense, We hope you had a blessed Sunday and Monday! 

 

We continue to walk with you, Nunsense

 

 

Day 12 Navarette to Najera    15.5 kms (9.63 miles)

(Nunsense said Day 13, but it is 12 I believe.  AL)

 

Quote from Nunsense:

 

I´ve gotten myself all confused as to what number the day is and how many kilometres I walked - so I will have to look it up in my diary when I have it on me. I am using the Internet in a hostel and my things are upstairs in the room.

 

I'm checking it on google maps as well, Nunsense....

 

I do know that today I walked from Navarrette to Najera which was about 16kms, and it is Sunday. Last night I went to Vigil Mass in Navarrette and it was quite sweet, although once again I wished that I understood more Spanish. I THINK that the gospel reading was when the disciples were sent out in twos to prepare towns for Jesus to follow.

 

If it would be helpful, I can include the daily reading links in English and Spanish... let me know....

 

And the homily seemed to focus on being Christians by living the life of Christ´s peace. But of course, I can´t guarantee any of it! :) After Mass the priest did the usual blessing of the pilgrims and the congregation all broke into song - something about the Camino -it was really sweet. I love the way the Spanish aren´t afraid to sing ´a capella´ without any accompaniment or anything. The priest will walk in to start the Mass and then just start singing and everyone will join in. He does the same at the end and everyone knows the songs! Loveit.

 

Navarrette was a really sweet town but as it was Saturday afternoon when I got into it - no Farmacia were open so I couldn´t stock up on bandaids and other things. But then today I didn´t need as many of them because my feet were feeling remarkably like they are starting to heal! Different parts hurt, like the balls of my feet or the heels, but the blisters seem to be under control for now. The knees and hips are the real problems now but manageable. I figure that by the time I get to the end of the Camino, every part of my body will have made itself heard - but at least they don´t all attack me at once! :)

 

Today I met up with another lady on her own that I met at the start. She is 70 years old from the US and occasionally we run across each other, so today we walked together. I don´t usually walk with someone else because this is a bit of a lone journey for me, but somehow it just seemed right, and we spent a good portion of the time talking about God. She isn´t Catholic, just a very spiritual person who trusts a lot in God. We came into Najera together and are staying at the same hostel. Whether we will walk together tomorrow or not remains to be seen, but it was a nice change and it did make the journey seem pleasant. Sort of like the disciples going out in twos - but we weren´t preaching, just sharing with each other. Sweet.

 

img_4005.jpg?w=300&h=225

 

(Not Nunsense... but sounds like her journey with the other pilgrim...)

 

I have checked the schedule up to Burgos, and it does seem as if I should be on time unless some injury or pain prevents me, but I am not worrying about it. God will show me what He wants I am sure.

 

A very good way to look at it....

 

Tomorrow I think I might make it to Santo Domingo but if not, that´s ok with me. There are some steep hills coming up and I might break those stages down a bit more. The combination of steep ascent and heat is a bit too much for me.

 

We'll plan for Santo Domingo... but take the time you need.

 

Jesus has been very close for two days and today my friend said that she knows people who never fight with God. I told her that they must not have a very close relationship with Him then! :) She and I both agreed that getting mad at God sometimes is just fine - and He can take it, too.

 

But right now there is no fighting, just a calm assurance that everything is ok.  I still have no idea where I will go after this is all over or what I will do, but one day at a time is really all that matters on the Camino.

 

Love to all here, and thanks for the hard work, AL, as always. Prayers for everyone too, every time I see another shrine or church. I light candle and pray Rosaries and ask for blessings for everyone. Stay well. :)

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

Here is a short video (10 mins) on The Camino.... lots of food for thought...

 

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fr4Zd2e1-pU[/media]

 

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

Projected next stage of Nunsense's journey:

 

http://www.caminomyway.com/on-the-camino-de-santiago-najera-to-redecilla-del-camino-spain 

the author of that blog continued BEYOND Santo Domingo... but this includes that part of his walk.

 

 

Sunday July 7 - Monday July 8

 

Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada 19.6 kms (12 miles)

 

 

Weather:  for today and the next few days….

 

Najera:    Sun, 07………….....… 14-30 C …… 57-86 F

Santo Domingo de la Calzada … 13-31 C …… 55-88 F

 

(note: afternoon thunderstorms projected  AND STRONG THUNDER STORMS THE NEXT FEW DAYS.  BE CAREFUL.)

www.accuweather.com/en/es /    for Najera and Santo Domingo de la Calzada

 

 

Here is a second blog, a much more informal one.  This section covers the walk between Najera and Santo Domingo:

 

http://www.gregspurgin.com/walking-the-camino-de-santiago/2010/09/07/najera-to-santo-domingo-de-la-calzada/

 

 

greg-carrying-lunch.jpg

http://www.gregspurgin.com/walking-the-camino-de-santiago/2010/09/07/najera-to-santo-domingo-de-la-calzada/

 

We hope you find bread as nice as the loaf this pilgrim is carrying!

 

 

728px-N%C3%A1jera%2C_Monasterio_de_Santa

 

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:N%C3%A1jera,_Monasterio_de_Santa_Maria_la_Real-PM_32598.jpg

 

Nájera, Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real

 

180px-Maria-real-retablo.jpg

 

http://wikirioja.com/wiki/Monasterio_de_Santa_Mar%C3%ADa_la_Real_de_N%C3%A1jera

 

Retablo de Santa María la Real de Nájera

 

 

santodomingo.jpg

Cathedral of Santo Domingo de las Calzadas

 

Website of the Cathedral, in English:

 

http://www.english.catedralsantodomingo.es/

 

 

We're all walking with you in spirit, dear friend.

 

Edited by AnneLine
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Day 14 I think - Monday July 8th

 

Najera to Cirueña 15.5 kms

 

I meant to walk to Santo Domingo but I have been having hip and knee problems so stopped in Cirueña instead. I will get to SD tomorrow and will definitely sop in the church to see the chickens - everyone talks about it. I will see if I can get them to eat off my walking poles - not the same as a staff, but maybe good enough? lol

 

Easy enough walk today but then I left at 5.30am to avoid the heat. I could have gone on to SD if the pain hadn´t been there because I got into this town early enough but no sense in making things worse. I will go through SD tomorrow but in addition to the church, I may also stop at Planet Aqua which is a hiking store - they have branches in several towns, but I think SD is the last one on the Camiono so I want to check out a few things.

 

Physically the blisters are healing and muscles are coping so if the joints get under control, things should start to look up a bit. Everyone says that the Camino challenges everthing, physically, emotionally, spiritually etc. Fortunately I have felt good with God for about three days - small miracles. At the beginning, He and I had a few little altercations but recently I have felt Him very close to me. If I have that, the rest seems to take care of itself. It might not last, but while it does -- oh heaven.

 

There are a few small towns after SD so I don´t know where I will stop - depends on pain levels, but I am looking at Redecilla del Camino or Viloria de Roja - we will see. I am trying o taske it easy but also aiming to be in Burgos by Saturday.

 

God is so good, isn´t He? I am no closer to knowing what I am going to do when this is all over, but I am sure He will give me the ticket when we finally reach the station. I just have to trust Him.

 

Joy to you all, and thanks to you especially AL for all your hard work.

 

 

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Just a few lines quickly, Nunsense, in case you check in before I get the regular update done later tonight.

 

I think you are wise to listen to your body, and also to see what the Planet Aqua people can suggest.  You want to be careful because you want to be sure you don't do something that would pull you off the Camino.

 

What I've been reading indicates that the hardest part of the walk is at the beginning... and that the next section is challenging in a different way... very flat, and very monotonous.  Be sure you have prepared yourself spiritually, emotionally and physically for that change.  If you didn't get a chance to watch the short video in yesterday's chunk of stuff from me, might be a useful way to spend 10 minutes....  You can see it imbedded in there.....

 

Am I correct that it is very likely we will get fewer updates from you over the next few weeks as there might be fewer places for you to connect?   Hopefully it will be different in Burgos (and after you connect with the iPOD), but you still might have limited access, yes? 

 

I bring this up so no one else will get worried if we don't hear from you....

 

I'll continue to post 'likely' locations and scenery, and you'll be able to tell us how well I did with my guesses.... !

 

I'll post the usual commentary & likely route later tonight....

 

Blessings,  Vaya con Dios, Peregrina!

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Nunsense, so glad your journey continues well.  Pray for us as we pray for you. 

 

 

Day 13 Najera to Cirueña   15.5 kms (9.63 miles)

(Nunsense said Day 14, but it is 13 I believe.  AL)

 

Quote from Nunsense:

 

I meant to walk to Santo Domingo but I have been having hip and knee problems so stopped in Cirueña instead. I will get to SD tomorrow and will definitely sop in the church to see the chickens - everyone talks about it. I will see if I can get them to eat off my walking poles - not the same as a staff, but maybe good enough? lol

 

Interesting blog entry from another pilgrim about this:

 

http://inspirationpilgrimage.blogspot.com/2007/07/njera-santo-domingo-de-la-calzada.html

 

The author quotes:   "Kerry Egan writes of this in her Fumbling,

"'The Holy Chickens made me very happy, almost irrationally happy. They seemed to make everyone happy. In the stores in town, a dozen different postcards with the images of the chickens could be found. Some were taken from a distance, with the entire chicken coop edifice on golden display, and some were close-ups of the chickens' faces in profile, like 1930's movie stars. I sent out a dozen postcards.

"'While walking the Camino, I just accepted that chickens would live in a cathedral. At that point, it seemed as reasonable as a woman who used an attack dog to alert her to pilgrims passing or the wine fountain in Irache…. Chickens in a church were par for the course at that point. When I got back, all those people who received chicken postcards were baffled...' (126-27)."

 

Easy enough walk today but then I left at 5.30am to avoid the heat. I could have gone on to SD if the pain hadn´t been there because I got into this town early enough but no sense in making things worse. I will go through SD tomorrow but in addition to the church, I may also stop at Planet Aqua which is a hiking store - they have branches in several towns, but I think SD is the last one on the Camino so I want to check out a few things.

 

Physically the blisters are healing and muscles are coping so if the joints get under control, things should start to look up a bit. Everyone says that the Camino challenges everthing, physically, emotionally, spiritually etc. Fortunately I have felt good with God for about three days - small miracles. At the beginning, He and I had a few little altercations but recently I have felt Him very close to me. If I have that, the rest seems to take care of itself. It might not last, but while it does -- oh heaven.

 

A life size bronze statue of a pilgrim... in Leon (further along your journey).

 

I bet you can relate, Nunsense!!!!

 

 

Leon01.jpg

 

http://worldtravelwithanne.blogspot.com/2010_10_01_archive.html 

(see Oct 20, 2010 entry)

 

There are a few small towns after SD so I don´t know where I will stop - depends on pain levels, but I am looking at Redecilla del Camino or Viloria de Roja - we will see. I am trying to take it easy but also aiming to be in Burgos by Saturday.

 

Nunsense, I am plotting that route for you.... through to Burgos by the 13th.  It looks do-able.  You take it at your own pace.  You may want to look at the blogs I have posted -- some make comments about various accommodations -- positive and negative!   We know you are along the Way somewhere, and we are praying for you.

 

God is so good, isn´t He? I am no closer to knowing what I am going to do when this is all over, but I am sure He will give me the ticket when we finally reach the station. I just have to trust Him.

 

That sounds like every person's description of walking the Way....

 

And, Yes He Is!!!   Viva Cristo Rey!  Viva!

 

Joy to you all, and thanks to you especially AL for all your hard work.

 

And with your spirit!   And to repeat, it is a privilege to do it for all of you.  And it is fun for me! I'll keep posting a few things each day even if we go through some silent periods from you, Nunsense.  Take care of yourself!

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Nunsense and all... Phatmass has been giving me problems with posting the next sections -- I think it is just too big for one post.

 

So... I'm going to post this in chunks.  Thank you for understanding!

 

 

 

way-of-st-james-map.jpg

 

(we haven't popped the map in for a while, so here it is...)

 

Nunsense is currently between Santo Domingo de la Calzada and Burgos

 

 

Projected next stage of Nunsense's journey:

 

This is an overview of the Way between Santo Domingo and Burgos:

(73.1 km / 45.42 miles)

 

Between Tuesday July 9 and Saturday, July 13: 

 

Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Redecilla del Camino  10.8 kms (6.7 miles)

Redecilla del Camino to Viloria de Rioja  4.7 kms (2.9 miles)

Viloria de Rioja to Belorado 9.6 kms (5.9 miles)

Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca 18.6 kms (7.9 miles)

Villafranca Montes de Oca to Atapuerca 21.5 kms (13.3 miles)

Atapuerca to Burgos  13.6 kms (8.4 miles)

 

Nunsense' actual route may vary from this, of course!

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This is the 'Camino My Way' Blogger's blog entries for these locations:

 

Najera to Redicilla del Camino  (Includes the section beginning at Santo Domingo de la Calzada)

http://www.caminomyway.com/on-the-camino-de-santiago-najera-to-redecilla-del-camino-spain 

 

Redicilla del Camino to Belorado

http://www.caminomyway.com/on-the-camino-de-santiago-redecilla-del-camino-to-belorado-spain

 

Belorado to Villafranca de Montes de Oca

http://www.caminomyway.com/camino-de-santiago-belorado-to-villafranca-de-montes-de-oca-spain

 

Villafranca de Montes de Oca to Atapuerca

http://www.caminomyway.com/camino-de-santiago-villafranca-de-montes-de-oca-to-atapuerca-spain

 

Atapuerca to Burgos

http://www.caminomyway.com/on-the-camino-de-santiago-atapuerca-to-burgos-spain

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WEATHER REPORT FOR

 

Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Burgos

 

 

AccuWeather:  for July 9 as of time of posting by AnneLine.... obviously it can change!

 

Santo Domingo de la Calzada .......16-31C …… 60-88 F

Redecilla del Camino.................... 16-31C …… 60-88 F

Viloria de Rioja............................ 16-31 C …… 60-88 F

Belorado....................................... 16-31 C …… 60-88 F

Villafranca Montes de Oca ......... 13-29 C …… 55-84 F

Atapuerca..................................... 15-32 C …… 59-89 F

Burgos.......................................... 15-32C …… 59-89 F

www.accuweather.com/en/es /    for locations noted above

Edited by AnneLine
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Final section from AnneLine for today (sorry it was so broken up, but Phatmass kept deleting sections.... grrrr.)

 

Here is a second blog, a much more informal one.  

 

This section covers the walk between Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Burgos.  Note that they take a slightly different route toward the end.

 

NUNSENSE:  You may want to look at the Camino entries for this blogger and the one a couple of posts up; they give info about some good and bad places at which they have stayed along this stretch.  Useful info I would think....

 

Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belardo

http://www.gregspurgin.com/walking-the-camino-de-santiago/2010/09/08/santo-domingo-de-la-calzada-to-belarado/

 

A few words about feet

http://www.gregspurgin.com/walking-the-camino-de-santiago/2010/09/08/a-few-words-about-feet/

 

Using Walking Poles on the Camino de Santiago

http://www.gregspurgin.com/walking-the-camino-de-santiago/2010/09/09/using-walking-poles-on-the-camino-de-santiago/

 

Belardo to San Juan de Ortega (NOTE:  slightly different route from previous blogger)

http://www.gregspurgin.com/walking-the-camino-de-santiago/2010/09/09/belorado-to-san-juan-de-ortega/

 

San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

http://www.gregspurgin.com/walking-the-camino-de-santiago/2010/09/11/san-juan-de-ortega-to-burgoss/

 

Comments about these blog posts and some pictures over the next few days while we await Nunsense' posts.  

 

Have a blessed journey, Nunsense!

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Day 15 - Tuesday July 9th  21k Cirueña to Viloria de Rioja

 

Dear AL and all - well today was actually not bad. I did have some serious foot problems for awhile but not blisters - just cramps under the ball of my left foot and some pain in the balls (going downhill) and the heels (going uphill). But I rested when necessary and managed to stumble through another 21k today. The hip and knee were much better.

 

Anne - I went through Santo Domingo at 7am so the chicken church wasn´t open, neither was the Cathedral, but I did get a photo of some lovely chapel to Our Lady. I can´t upload here again but someday I will get them online and labelled I hope. I left the last hostel at 5.45am and it was still dark, so used a flashlight until 6am when we had some false dawn. I like to walk while it is still cool because those temps you quoted are in the shade, and most of the Camino right now has no shade - it is all in the baking sun, so you can add another 10 degrees Fahrenheit I think.

 

Anne, I don´t have time online to check out a lot of blogs, especially as I have to check email, check phatmass and then check bank balances etc... business stuff, and I pay by the minute for use. Maybe when I have the iPod Touch I can do more blog reading though, so thanks for the info.

 

I stopped in several churches along the way that were open and said some prayers for everyone and even lit a candle at one church. Spain is so full of churches that it is incredible, every town has one (and I don´t see any other denominations in the small towns either). And the lovely thing is that every church rings a bell or the quarter hour, the half hour, the three quarter hour, and then rings out the hour. And before Mass, well, bells just ring all the time for about half an hour!

 

The food is lovely and fresh - salads amazing, everything just so nice. If it weren´t for the physical endurance test, I think I could enjoy this a lot more - lol. God is close and you are right - that´s what this is all about. Nothing else seems to matter except our relationship, and even the physical takes a back seat to that. Last night the hostel where I stayed was a private one, and quite reasonable for a single room, which was all they would offer me (they didn´t have bunkbeds there). My friend also got a single room which she said was lovely but I noticed it had a shared bathroom. Well, I arrived first and I heard the lady tell her husband to give me the ´matrimonial´cama (the bridal suite in other words). It was huge and had its own bathroom and was all done out in old Spanish wood - amazingly beautiful. I had to laugh and think that Jesus must still consider me to be His bride if He is giving me the matrimonial room all to myself. LOL How could I not laugh? There are always little things like this popping up to make me smile and know that He is near, even on a physical level.

 

This is the most amazing thing that I have ever done in my life and I am so grateful to God for the opportunity. I think someone posted once before that it almost makes leaving the convent worth it and I said no, it doesn´t. But on second thought, if this is the ompensation prize for not being able to stay in the convent, then I can´t complain - second best in this case isn´t second best to me anymore. 

 

I am learning so much about trust and every day I am falling more i love with Jesus, if that is even possible. What a joy. What a blessing. Today I went into one church and the Crucifix on the wall was very lifelike with bloody knees and feet on Our Lord, so I just had to touch them and feel such a connection that here I am having problems with my knees and feet, and Our Lord has suffered through it all already for me. I don´t know if I can convey what it feels like. Anyway, each day is fascinating. I am not looking forward to a couple of really big hills coming up, but I will deal with them when I get to them.

 

Continued prayers for everyone, especially for the Church and for the Holy Father.

 

Catch you again when I can. I am looking at trying to reach Villafranca Montes de Oca tomorrow but we will see what happens.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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